Yamaha 701 Based Alighment

Proper alignment is critical for keeping your ski up and running all season long. The process starts with the mid ski bulkhead. We first align the pump to this bulkhead by checking radial and axial alignment. WE adjust these alignments using shims. Then we install the midshaft without the rubber damper. Last but not least we align the Motor coupler to the midshaft coupler WITHOUT the rubber damper. We check radial and axial alignment here as well and adjust with shims. Only after everything is aligned can we reinstall the rubber damper and make sure the shims all go where they need to on the motor mounts.

Tools Needed:
-SN or RN Alignment Tool (Links at Bottom)
-Feeler Gauges (optional)

Parts Needed:
– Pump Shim Kit
– Engine Shim Kit
– Countersunk m8 Bolts (included in WBW Alignment RN kit)

Pump Alignment
Start by bolting up your pump to the ski with the bolts hand tight. – Now install a WBW or Push alignment tool onto the bulkhead without the collar. You must you Countersunk bolts. Our wbw tools come pre countersunk to center the tool automatically. Once installed slide the collar onto the alignment tool.

Start with side to side adjustment: you should be able to manipulate the pump left to right to get the shaft as centered as possible. Dont worry about up and down for now. just try to get left to right as perfect as you can.

Up and down adjustment: now most likely your pump shaft is to low in the tool (towards the bottom of the ski) This tends to be the most common senerio and allows adjustment via shims easily. Tighten the front 2 pump bolts snug so we dont loose side to side alignment. Loosen the back 2 bolts on the reduction nozzle. Now start playing with different thickness shims evenly on both sides. Add them between the hull and the pump (you may have to put some pressure downward on the back of the nozzle to get the shims inserted. After each change, go check the alignment tool and see if you need to add more, or less. Play with this until the collar of the alignment tool slides into and out of the Tool base smoothly.

Second check: got your alignment perfect? Now give your pump shaft a spin 180 degrees. This checks the runout of the pump shaft. It should stay centered. IF it dosnt, you need to investigate further.

Axial Alignement: Check bulkhead axial alignment using one of our WBW tools. New ones comes with a thicker ring for this purpose. Our collars can also be used with the push base if desired. This step is sort of optional unless your anal or having a reoccuring issue with the driveline. After inserting the collar use feeler gauges by sliding it around the tool 360 degrees between the tool and the collar face. It should not slide into the space between the tool and collar at all when gentle pressure is applied. If you are getting some gape on one area of the tool you will need to shim the tool to get it axially aligned with the pump shaft. If you shim the tool You must recheck the above 2 steps to make sure you did not affect radial alignment. there should be no gap and the coller should seat fully on the tool

Installation of Midshaft: Remove the alignment tool and reuse the countersunk bolts to install the midshaft. this will ensure the midshaft is perfectly aligned with the driveshaft. Sung all the bolts. Now remove them 1 by 1 and install the OEM hardware one at a time and torque to spec (12 Ft lbs).

Motor alignment to Midshaft: Install motor without rubber damper. Play with side to side play and get it as centered as you can. This part can be tough, so stick with it. Notice that the bed is angled so moving it one way lifts the motor slightly. You may need to loosen a motor mount and slide it in or out. Put all 4 motor mount bolts looosly into the motor. a few turns so it holds strong. We want to be able to lift and manipulate the motor but not loose shims.

Axial alighment: Now start with the rear motor mounts. Add shims untill the bottom of the couplers just start to become even, dont add to much! a little less is OK for now. Now add shims to the front of the motor, using a 1mm shim or thick washer or feeler gauge check the gap bettween the couplers at 90, 180, 270, 360. Adjust the shims around the motor to get this gap even across all angles. This adjusts axial alignment. During this or after we will need to make sure the 2 couplers are in line radially. so feel around the edge from coupler to coupler and make sure the 2 circles are in line with each other. you can do this simutansiously, but focas on axial first. We also need to make sure there is a ~3mm gap between the 2 couplers so they dont rub. So work this into your adjustments.

Radial alignment: Feel around the coupler, Look at it, take some pictures from diferent angles, and use a smal straight edge from coupler to coupler to check to make sure the 2 couplers are right in line with each other. any shims will need to be added or removed equally as to not throw axial alignment out of spec.

Final check: check axial aligment once more and then radial. you may want to walk away and come back, your eyes can play tricks on you and this can be a frustrating process.

Final install: Remove all shims and place them somewhere safe with them marked where they go on the mounts. Slide the engine forward and reinstall the rubber damper. slide the engine back into the damper ensuring the ~3mm gap between couplers

Things to note:

Sometimes the midshaft Shaft needs to be pressed into the housing more.
Sometimes the motor mounts need to be slid forward and aft
sometimes a washer needs to be added, removed or a diferent thickness one installed on the motor and or midshaft side